Discover Montpellier: Paris’ Sexy Sister In The South
Wander the streets of the Medieval part of town.
Montpellier is definitely Paris’ sexy sister of the south. This city has an understated elegance and a youthful vibe due to the large number of university students that populate the city. It’s a cool place to visit and live. That’s why the 8th largest city in France has been the fastest growing over the past 25 years.
It is nicknamed “La Surdouée” in French or “the gifted one,” and when you visit you’ll understand why many compare this southern city to Paris. What makes it sexy? Youth, universities, beaches, wine, romance, culture and history. It’s a recipe for sexy!! Montpellier; is the lesser-known jewel of the French Riviera and has tons to offer on your visit. Montpelliers’ best attributes include its medieval alleyways as well as newer districts that blend green spaces and modern architecture. And, it’s only a three hour TGV ride from Paris’ Gare de Lyon station. Montpellier is the largest city in the Languedoc-Roussillion region, which is dominated by wine producers and famous destinations such as Carcassone, Nimes, and Avignon.
The old quarter showcases many mansions, as well as monuments like the Porte du Peyrou (Arc de Triomphe) and the statue of Louis XIV that reside on the Promenade de Peyrou. King Louis XIV or the “Sun KIng” as he was known, undoubtedly had the biggest impact in Montpellier’s history, when he appointed it capital of the Languedoc in the 17th century. This put the city in the service of the king and attracted the privileged classes who built themselves neighborhoods filled with these elegant homes.
““There is nothing impossible to him who will try.” King Louis XIV”
Children’s street art in the Gambetta neighborhood
Montpellier boasts a variety of cultural festivals and is regularly voted the best city to live in France. This city with a small town feel, really does encompass all the attributes of Paris but with a distinctly youthful vibe and Mediterranean weather. Although Montpellier doesn’t sit on the coast, there are a number of beaches that can be accessed easily by the local tram line that features designs by French fashion designer Christian Lacroix.
With so much to do, it’s no surprise that Montpellier and the Languedoc is on our must see list if you head to France this summer.
Here’s what we suggest to do in Montpellier and the Languedoc-Rousillion region.
Entrance to Baudon de Mauny
Full disclosure. We stay with relatives when I’m in town, so we haven’t stayed at any of these places. But, each comes with a recommendation from a local and I have stopped by for a visit to each. I’m partial to boutique hotels, so that’s why we’re recommending these.
Beach: Palavas les Flots
Hôtel Plage Palace
Think Miami meets Ibiza in the South of France. It’s right on a beautiful stretch of beach at Palavas les Flots.
City Center: Montpellier
Boutique Hotel Baudon de Mauny
Trendy and sheik are blended with historical in this 18th century building in the historic center. The hotel is a short walk from all the attractions in and around the Comedie.
Unique Vineyard Experience
Domaine de Verchant
If you have access to a car, this hotel is about a 15 minute ride outside of town. It’s a unique experience. When do you ever get to stay on a vineyard in the South of France? The hotel is located in a 19th century mansion on a 16th century estate. I may stay there the next time we’re in Montpellier!!
Restaurants and Bars
Restaurants are distinctly personal, but we feel these are excellent choices when visiting the area. This is not an exclusive list. This is a university town and there are many choices.
Favorite wine Bar
Glouglou
This is one of the sexiest wine bars we have ever visited. Glouglou is situated in a 14th century building in the historic city center. It offers an excellent selection of wines from dispensers and a variety of homemade tapas make up their menu. You can serve yourself with a pre-paid card from the dispensers. The wines range from very reasonably price to very expensive. I suggest, if budget permits, to try the Sauternes. It is absolutely amazing. The owners are very friendly and welcoming. We visited their former restaurant on a previous trip; De l’Art ou du Couchon; and they have outdone themselves with Glouglou. They really know how to communicate their passion for wine and food pairing. We enjoyed the experience so much that we returned twice on a recent visit. Reservations are recommended.
27 rue du Pila Saint Gely 34000, Montpellier Phone: 33 04 34 11 71 41
Won’t break the Bank
Creperie Le Kreisker
Located right off the Place de La Comedie, Le Kreisker is one of the best creperies in town. They offer a wide variety of options including vegetarian. It has a hip vibe and relaxed atmosphere with a friendly and attentive staff. If you want a excellent crepes, this is the place to visit. I have to say that I can’t get enough of crepes with Nutella. If I had to choose a last meal, that would be it!!
3 Passage Bruyas, 34000, Montpellier France Phone: 33 4 67 60 82 50
Favorite $$$$ Restaurant
Maison de la Lozere
I don’t think we every really understood the concept of presentation until we dined at Maison de la Lozere. The food is perfectly prepared and the service staff is superbly professional. Do try the aligot, which is a dish made from cheese and blended mashed potatoes. It has a thick fondue like quality and the waiter presents the dish with flair and showmanship. As dinner portions are small, we left feeling satisfied due to the unlimited aligot. We dined in the courtyard patio, but restaurant is housed in a 12th century building. It was alike a scene from an old Hollywood movie. Expensive it is; many would argue that it is overpriced; but if you are interested in having a fine dining experience in the south of France, Maison de la Lozere should be on your list.
rue de l'Aiguillerie, 34000, Montpellier France Phone: 33 4 67 66 46 36
Maison De La Lozere
Photo from Michelin Restaurant Guide
One of our favorite restaurants in Montpellier closed a few years ago; De l’Art ou du Couchon. The owners have since opened Glouglou.
Shop at les Halles Castellane
Go buy the perfect picnic lunch at this fiersly modern designed building in the Old Town, and head to the Promanade de Peyrou!! Shopping at les Halles Castellane allows tourists to get a peak into the daily life of locals in Montpellier. Here you can shop for a variety of essentials such as cured meats, cheese, wine, and many fruits and veggies. Don’t forget the wine!! It’s cheap and the Languedoc produces some of the best in France. It’s a daily stop when we visit, as our accommodations are about ten minutes away. The square where the market sits also has a number of bars and restaurants. It’s a great place to people watch and enjoy the youthful vibe of the city.
Popular Festivals
Festival Montpellier Danse
This is a world renowned contemporary dance festival. It brings more than 300 dance companies from all over the world. The festival hosts dozens of shows during the ten day event, many of which are free. The festival was held June 22nd through July 6th in 2019. Keep an eye out for next years dates. Advance tickets are recommended for performances at the Corum, Theatre la Vignette and the Agora. We have seen several performances at the Corum and find them captivating. It was at this festival that we fell in love with contemporary dance.
Montpellier Danse Offices
18, Rue Sainte Ursule
CS 39520
34961 MONTPELLIER Cédex 2
Tél. : +33(0) 4 67 60 83 60
Festival Radio France Occitaine Montpellier
This festival held from July 10th to July 26th offers symphony concerts, operatic performances, world renowned pianists, chamber music, jazz, world music and electronic music concerts. The festival was established in 1985 and over 100,000 attend the festival each year. There are over 200 events, many of which are free. Be sure to buy tickets in advance as many of the performance sell out at the Corum, Operia Comedie and Opera Berlioz. We have seen several concerts during the festival and are never disappointed.
Festival Radio France et Montpellier Languedoc-Roussillon Office
Allée des Républicains Espagnols
CS 79912 - 34960 Montpellier Cedex 2
Tél.: +33(0)4 67 61 66 81
For More Information
Le Festival Radio France à Montpellier Ugo Ponte © onl
Beaches
Ooh La La!!!! Do visit the beaches on the outskirts of Montpellier. There are approximately 19 within a 40 minute drive of the city. Our favorites are, Palavas-les-Flots and Carnon, each are approximately 8 miles from the city center. Another recommended beach is Point Zero Beach near Le Grand-Motte. Be aware that there are sections of beaches that are dedicated to those that like to sun bathe “au naturale”
You can easily reach Carnon beach without a car - you simply take a tram from Montpellier city centre (Line 3 to Perols Etang de l'Or and then walk to Carnon beach).
Michele at Palavas-les-Flots
Fabre Museum
The Fabre is one of our favorite places to visit on a rainy day in Montpellier. The museum has a varied collection of more than 800 works from different artists and periods. To think that most were a part of François-Xavier Fabre’s personal collection is incredible. It was his donation and vision that led to its’ foundation in the 1820’s. Since then the collection has grown, with donated art by names like Frédéric Bazille later that century, and more recently, Pierre Soulages. The museum’s paintings and sculptures are displayed in chronological order and include works by Courbet, Renior, Rigaud, Rubens, Veronese and Zurbarán.
Old Montpellier (L’ Écusson)
L’Écusson is historic district of Montpellier. Dating back to the medieval times, this neighborhood spreads to the west and northwest of the Place de la Comédie. Many of the streets are “sans” vehicles so it offers pedestrians the ability to wander through a broad network of winding streets where you’ll find quaint boutiques, excellent restaurants, and historical landmarks. We love wandering the streets in Old Montpellier. It’s so charming.
Promenade de Peyrou
After you’ve collected your picnic lunch at les Halles Castellane take a stroll around the promenade entering through the Arc de Triomphe. You will find many local residents doing the same. Occupying the highest part of Montpellier, near the old walls, this square was designed during the reign of Louis XIV and there is a monument to him there as well. The Château d’Eau, built in the 18th century is a monumental water tower fed by the Saint-Clement Aqueduct, which is about 7 miles long and crosses the square. The arches of the aqueduct which can be viewed from monument, are modeled after the famous Pont du Gard. It’s a beautiful place to visit if you just want to slow down and enjoy the beautiful Mediterranean weather.
Château d’Eau
Place de la Comédie
The Place de la Comedie separates the historic part of Montpellier and the newer districts. This is a lively area where, if your timing is correct, you can watch a leg of the Tour de France. This usually occurs in mid July. The Place de La Comedie has many shops and restaurants but most disappointedly contains a McDonalds. The main tram line runs through the middle of the square which accesses most parts of the city and now the coast. It is a beautiful place to visit in the evening when the lights give it a bluish hue. The Opera Comedie occupies a corner to the south. The Opera is an amazing venue, where we have seen several notable performances. Steps away from the square or “the Egg” as the residents refer to it, is Le Polygone; a huge shopping mall; where you can get anything from Bath and Body Works to groceries. To the north is the Jardin du Champ de Mars along the Esplanade Charles de Gaulle. Walk north to the end of the Esplanade and you will be at the Corum, the main venue for most of the mentioned festivals. As a side note, if we did not have relatives that live in the Gambetta, we would definitely stay close to the Place de la Comedie or in the Old Town.
Photo credit: GBP27, Depositphotos.com
Tour de France at the Place de la Comedie
Pavillon Populaire
In a prominent location on the Esplanade Charles de Gaulle sits a beautiful art nouveau building built at the end of the 19th century. For more than a hundred years it’s been the site of all sorts of public exhibitions, but in the 90s it became devoted solely to wonderful temporary exhibitions of photography, put on for free. There are evidently three exhibitions per year. We’ve been fortunate to be able to see exhibits during two of our visits; a Francis Ford Coppola exhibit and photography of American Roads; an exploration and mapping before there was Google imaging.
Château de Flaugergues in Montpellier credit: Château de Flaugergues
A Winery Tour
The Pic Saint-Loup wine terroir is one of the most acclaimed in Langudoc-Roussillon, so if you have access to a car, take a drive through wine country. You will find a variety of tasty red blends made from syrah, grenache, and mourvèdre grapes. Here are a few wineries that offer tours. These are the ones we have visited. There are many, so ask a local once you are in the city.
Mas Julien
If you're in the area, call ahead and if possible meet Olivier Julien We had the opportunity to meet him at a wine tasting where he explained the history, his passion for the vine, and dedication to producing some of the best wine in the region.
3 Chemin du Mas Jullien, 34725 Jonquières, France Phone: +33 4 67 96 60 04
Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue
About an hour drive from Montpellier, you’ll experience one of the prettiest wineries we’ve experienced. The chateau is right out of a movie. It is a truly wonderful experience. Do call ahead to see if reservations must be made.
D613, 34530 Montagnac, France Phone: +33 4 67 24 00 40
Domaine de l’Hortus
Located in the shadows of Pic Saint Loup, Domaine de l’Hortus is located about 35 minute drive from Montpellier city center. It is a wonderful example of a family run farm. In addition to the wine tasting (and shopping) the view and scenery are fantastic.
D1e8 | Ir ao Pic de Saint Loup, 34270 Valflaunes, France
+33 4 67 55 31 20
Château de Flaugergues
This winery is located right outside the Montpellier city center. The 18th century chateau will transport you back in time. They offer a guided tour of the chateau, vineyard and garden, and a tasting of four wines for a small fee of 4.50 Euro. I highly recommend. There is a Michelin rated restaurant on site, but we have not dined there.
1744 avenue Albert Einstein, 34000, Montpellier, France +33 4 99 52 66 37
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert
For a rural day-trip in a supreme natural setting, step back in time to the medieval settlement of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is one of the “most beautiful villages” in France. Spend some time wandering the stone streets, where the houses were built amid the backdrop of limestone landforms. Definitely pay a visit to the village’s Benedictine abbey from the early-ninth century. The cloister and the garden in the middle are as peaceful as you thought they would be. The hike overlooking the village is steep, but worth it!
Avignon
Take a 1 hour train ride from Montpellier and visit the Palais des Papes in Avignon. The train lets you out right at the city center. The Palais des Papes is a short walk up the center of Avignon and is one of the largest and most important medieval Gothic buildings in all of Europe. It’s historic roots were as a fortress and a palace, and was the Pope’s residence during the 14th century. Check out the views of the Rhone River from the stone bridge and the turrets. Tickets can be purchased for the bridge and palace at the entrance for 14,50 Euros. It’s a great day trip through some of southern France’s most beautiful scenery.
Palais des Papes
Pont du Gard
Heading in the same direction as Avignon, you will find one of the best remaining examples of a Roman aqueduct. Pont du Gard is the tallest aqueduct built in the Roman Empire nearly 2000 years ago. Because of its historical value and exceptional condition it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.
It is unreal to us that the site was built in only 5 years. This ancient marvel allowed inhabitants of Nîmes to have running water for close to 5 centuries. A museum on site traces the history of the Roman aqueduct, displays models, virtual reconstructions, multimedia screens and sounds, describes its’ construction during the Ancient Roman world.
Carcassonne
If you have ever watched the movie Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves (1991), then you’ve seen Carcassonne castle. Carcassonne competes with Mont St. Michel for the title of France’s most visited monument. The citadel was restored at the end of the 19th century and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. There are two hotels within the walls of Carcassonne. We stayed at the Best Western Le Donjon. It’s definitely not what you expect from a hotel chain. This place is part of the castle. As you have to park outside of the walls, the hotel will send a shuttle to pick you up at the lot. We ended up carrying our luggage and walking up to the hotel. We loved our stay at Le Donjon. It was a highlight of one of our trips to the region.
Courtyard of the Best Western Le Donjon inside the walls of Carcassonne
We love our time spent in Southern France and are grateful that we have a base in Montpellier that serves as a jumping off point. We love having relatives there. In upcoming blog posts we’ll talk about Nice, Chamonix, Annecy and jump over to Monaco. We hope you enjoyed our post! If you did, maybe you would like to read our other posts from France.
Merci beaucoup et à la prochaine!!
