Unmasking Venice
Gulls hovered in the air and motorboats buzzed across the water as the ship carried us past the famous San Marco Square and on to the port of Venice. Venice isn’t like other cities, it’s truly unique. There are very few roads, but the canal system is intricate and teeming with activity. Locals know how to navigate through the chaos, and chaos is just a part of Venetian life. Venice isn’t a Disney destination, although many treat it that way. The city is rich with history and culture, striking architecture, and some of the best food in the world. If you have never visited, unmasking Venice should be at the top of your bucket list.
““This was Venice, the flattering and suspect beauty this city, half fairytale and half tourist trap, in whose insalubrious air the arts once rankly and voluptuously blossomed, where composers have been inspired to lulling tones of somniferous eroticism.”
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Venice is situated on a group of 118 small islands that are separated by canals and linked by over 400 bridges. The islands are located in the shallow Venetian Lagoon, an enclosed bay that lies between the mouths of the Po and the Piave Rivers.
Avoid the summer in Venice to avoid the huge crowds and the heat.
If you’re allergic to mold and mildew bring allergy medication because you’ll need it.
A gondola ride costs €80 per 30 minutes for up to six people. That is to hire the gondola, not per person.
The lagoon and a part of the city are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Ships are no longer allowed to carry you past Piazza San Marco
Bridge of Sighs
Between autumn and early spring, the city is often threatened by flood tides pushing in from the Adriatic Sea.
Venice is known for several important artistic movements—especially during the Renaissance period—has played an important role in the history of symphonic and operatic music, and is the birthplace of Antonio Vivaldi
Although the city is facing some major challenges (including financial difficulties, pollution, an excessive number of tourists and problems caused by cruise ships sailing close to the buildings) Venice remains a very popular tourist destination, an iconic Italian city, and has been ranked the most beautiful city in the world.
April 25th is St. Mark’s Day and the anniversary of Venice’s founding in 421 AD. Venetians honored the doge or head of state with a dish called risi e bisi. This traditional Venetian dish of rice with peas is best made in the spring when fresh peas in the pod are at their sweetest. It is similar to risotto, but a bit on the soupy side, and less rich.. St. Mark’s Day is also known as Liberation day. Many shops and attractions are closed as it is a public holiday.
Venetian masks are a centuries-old tradition of Venice. The masks are typically worn during the Carnevale (Carnival of Venice), but have been used on many other occasions in the past, usually as a device for hiding the wearer's identity and social status. I find them a bit “Eyes Wide Shut.” The Carnival of Venice is an annual festival that ends with the Christian celebration of Lent, forty days before Easter, on Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday. During this time residents and tourists wear the elaborate masks to opulent masquerade balls. In 2020, Carnevale will be held between the dates of Saturday February 8 and Tuesday February 25th. During this time Venice can expect about 4 million visitors.
photo credit: Squarespace
You may not be aware that there are numerous options available for getting to Venice, either by land or by boat, and the cost can vary greatly depending on which method of transportation you select. This is important in Venice because you want to avoid dragging your suitcase across cobblestone and bridges. It’s another reason to pack light (see our Knock Your Socks Off packing list). With just a little knowledge and some preparation you can avoid an aggravating start to your vacation and ensure that you do not over pay for an 11 mile trip from Marco Polo Airport (VCE) to your hotel.
Bus from airport:
The cheapest way to get the airport to Venice is the ATVO bus. Every 30 minutes they are driving from the airport via Mestre to Piazzale Roma. ATVO express buses depart from Marco Polo Airport every thirty minutes and provide express non-stop service to Piazzale Roma. Tickets cost €8 and can be purchased upon arrival in the airport at the automatic ticket machines or at the ATVO ticket office located in the arrivals hall. There are also automatic ticket machines located outside of the terminal in the ATVO departure area where you will pick up the bus or you can purchase on-line ahead of time. ATVO buses have underneath luggage storage so you won’t have to carry your luggage onto the bus.
Assuming you stay close to Piazza San Marco; from Piazzale Roma get on Vaporetto #1 and ride down the Grand Canal to Piazza San Marco. A single one-way trip on the vaporetto will cost €7.50.
Another option is the the company Alilaguna which runs a service to Venice from the airport. It takes about an hour to reach Venice at San Marco on the Red line. It costs about €15 per person. Tickets can be bought online or at the airport. These shuttles have the yellow bottoms, so they’re easy to spot.
There are other options, but they are extremely costly. In fact, a water taxi could cost you €100 from the airport. These are quick and convenient, but you pay for it.
Transport options from the Airport.
St. Regis Venice: Marriot collection ($$$$)
The location is phenomenal and the rooms with Grand Canal view are beautiful. We stayed in a city view which was ok. Staff is very friendly and helpful. They assisted us when we were trying to get to Murano and Burano. With the exception of drinks at the Arts bar we opted to dine elsewhere. The hotel also has exceptional spa treatments available.
Photo credit: The St. Regis Hotel Venice
Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal ($$$)
The location of this hotel could not be better! It is basically 2 blocks from the Piazza San Marco, and right on the Grand Canal. So, if you choose to splurge on a water taxi, it can pull right up to the hotel. I highly advise that you drop the extra money for a canal view room. You won’t regret it.
Hotel NH Collection Venezia Palazzo Barocci ($$$)
The hotel is a blend of modern and traditional Venetian architecture and furnishings. The Venezia Palazzo Barocci is in a quiet spot right on the Grand Canal and the St Angelo Vaporetto stop couldn’t be closer. The staff were professional and helpful. Again, opt for a canal view if you have the budget. You won’t regret it.
photo credit: NH Collection Venezia Palazzo Barocci
Budget Options: Sample fish cicheti (like tapas) in a bacarro (wine bar) or one of the many bars in the Rialto Bridge area.
Try Venetian favorites like:
Seppie al nero (cuttlefish in it’s ink)
Sarde al soar (sardines marinated in onions and white-wine vinegar
Baccala mantecata (creamed cod)
Risi I bisi: risotto and baby peas
Our favorite wine bars:
Bancogiro
Address: Campo San Giacometto, Ponte di Rialto, 122, 30125 Venezia
Phone: +39 041 523 2061
Happening brick-vaulted dining room turning out modern Venetian dishes, plus a terrace on the canal. It’s a great place for drink and a bite to eat.
Harry’s Bar ($$$)
Calle Vallaresso, 1323, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
+39 041 528 5777
This historical landmark is a bit touristy, but worth a visit. The bar is small, intimate and charming, but expensive. Try a Bellini cocktail for €22 Yes….it’s expensive. It’s an Italian favorite. It’s a fragrant fusion of prosecco and white peach puree. Barman Giuseppi Cipriani invented it here in 1934. Don’t be surprised if you run in to a few celebrities. They’ve been seen here. Be aware that there is a business casual dress code.
Restaurants:
Osteria Al Squero ($$)
Dorsoduro, 943 / 944, 30123 Venice, Italy
+39 335 600 7513
Osteria Al Squero is a lively bar directly across the canal from a gondola repair shop, giving you an interesting view while you have a drink. It seems to have a mix of locals and university students, as well as tourists. The inside has limited seating, most of which it appears to be claimed by locals. The front of the bar is lined by patrons enjoying their drinks while sitting on the stone wall lining the canal. It’s a delightful place to
La Caravella ($$$)
via XXII Marzo 2399 San Marco, 30124 Venice Italy
+39 041 520 8901
I’m not that keen on recommending Tripadvisor picks, but their Winner of the Award of Excellence should be on your list. The restaurant is located fairly close to San Marco Square. La Caravella is known for outstanding service and quality food within in a beautiful setting. My advice is to splurge and treat yourself by going to the La Cavavella! The fish was superbly prepared. Great quality and fresh.
If you want to venture away from Venice:
Locanda Cipriani ($$$)
Piazza Santa Fosca, 29, 30142 Torcello VE, Italy
+39 041 730150
Situated in Torcello (it can be reached by taking the water ferry that goes to Torcello, Burano, and Murano) It is a classic Venetian restaurant that was frequented by Hemingway and Queen Elizabeth II. During the day visitors can enjoy the fresh air while they eat in the garden, and at night you can dine by candlelight. Their food is excellent and service impeccable. They also have beautiful rooms for travelers who want to stay in a more relaxed area than the city center.
The entire walk is only 36 minutes!!
We’ll use the St. Regis Hotel as our starting point. Venice is amazing because it’s very difficult to get lost. In fact, that’s part of the fun. You can walk from one end of San Marco to the other in about 30 minutes.
From the hotel, walk up to Calle Larga XXII Marzo and follow this east to Piazza San Marco. You’ll be passing some pretty high end stores. The first thing you’ll see when you enter the Piazza is St. Mark’s Campanile which is an imposing 16th-century square cathedral tower with an angel-topped spire & belfry offering sea views.
Across the piazza you’ll see the Basilica San Marco Venice’s iconic cathedral with a cavernous gilded interior, myriad mosaics & an on-site museum. If you enter any of the churches, please understand that there is a dress code.
Following the Piazza towards the water, you’ll come to Doge's Palace which is an ornate Gothic palace with buildings hosting exhibitions with duke's rooms, prison & armory tours.
As you turn left and walk across the Ponte Della Paglia you’ll get a glimpse of the Bridge of Sighs, an arched bridge named for sighs of prisoners crossing it en route from the Palazzo Ducale to prison.
Walk along the Canale della Giudecca (east) There are many shops and restaurants on the waterfront to stop and grab a bite to eat or a drink. From here you’ll get a great photo opportunity of San Giorgio Maggiore island.
From here go back through Piazza San Marco head north on a 15 minute walk to get to Rialto Bridge. Don’t worry about getting lost, just head north. You’ll snake around through the streets and the locals are happy to point you in the right direction, besides there are plenty of signs for Rialto. Enjoy the experience. The bridge is an icon in Venice. Ornate covered 16th-century stone footbridge crossing the Grand Canal. The bridge is lined with shops & restaurants.
From there, follow Ruga dei Oresi and turn right on to Fondamente Vin Castello. Follow the Grand Canal on the right and walk up to the Rialto Fish Market. This is the colorful bustling food market of Venice and is a short walk away from the Rialto Bridge. It’s best to go early if you have the opportunity. Fish has been sold here for about 500 years and many Venetians come here to do their daily shopping. An hour here is probably long enough. When at the Market look across the Grand Canal to see Ca' d'Oro, a Venetian-Gothic palace on the Grand Canal, home to the Franchetti gallery of Renaissance art.
Head back towards the bridge and stop at Osteria Bancogiro (see above) for a late lunch. You won’t be disappointed.
(Optional) As you head back across the Rialto Bridge, turn right and head to the Rialto Vaporetto dock Dock . Take Line 1 which will bring you back to San Marco (Villaresso). The stops are electronically displayed inside, towards the front of the boats.
To finish off the day, I’d suggest taking a gondola ride. As mentioned above, a 30 minute ride will cost about €80 and an hour will cost €120. There are many gondola stations (you can’t miss them) and if there aren’t many people you might score yourself a deal.
Credit: Google maps
